A Day Trip to Photograph the Ancient Seaside Capital of Japan
In my time traveling and photographing different places, I’ve learned many things.
I learned that sometimes timing of day can be more important than skill.
I learned that things don’t always look the way they do on the internet.
And I learned: you don’t always get good photos.
Sometimes you’re on a time crunch, sometimes the conditions aren’t right, and sometimes you gotta make do with what you have.
This may mean putting in extra effort or having the flexibility to reschedule and try again.
This such experience I had when visiting Kamakura last year.
Kamakura is a beautiful coastal city, just south of Tokyo.
It’s filled with unique temples, shrines, and views.
And long ago, it was even the capital city of Japan.
But perhaps the most attractive part of Kamakura (to me at least) are it’s aesthetic retro green trains.
I wouldn’t say I’m obsessed with trains, but I did grow fond of them in my time in Japan.
And during my visit, if I could get just one solid print worthy shot of a beachside Kamakura train, life would be good.
Today I’m going to take you on my first day trip to Kamakura.
We’ll explore the different spots that make this city so special, and of course, we’ll take a lot of photos.
Let’s begin.
Komachi Street
Do crowded streets make for good photos?
It’s often when taking street photos I find myself in conflict between more and less people.
More people means more subjects but can also mean too many subjects.
Less people means less overwhelm but can also mean not enough subjects.
So sometimes I’d prefer more people, other times I’d prefer less.
An example of where there were a bit too many people was Komachi Street.
Just an hour and a half train ride from Tokyo, Komachi Street is a popular shopping street in the heart of Kamakura.
It’s got tons of shops filled with souvenirs, cafes, restaurants, and more.
As soon as I got off the train I found a nearby coffee shop to chill, relax, and observe people walking by.
This gave me a chance to get a feel for the city and the lighting conditions I’d be working with.
Unfortunately, the weather this day was on and off.
The week as a whole was rainy, and this was one of the few days where there was sun - albeit for only a few hours.
So if I wanted that sunny green train shot, I’d have to get lucky.
As I walked down Komachi Street, I got a few interesting shots here and there and it served as a great warm up.
However, I did feel as if there were a bit too many people for my taste, which made it hard to isolate subjects and eliminate unwanted ones.
I didn’t stay long, as there are many other photo worthy spots in the area that we had to get to.
So overall, Komachi Street is a great place to stop by and shop around, but as a photo spot, I’d give it…a 6.7.
Komachi Street Spot Score: 6.7.
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu
Perhaps one of the most famous things Japan is known for are its shrines and temples.
Shintoism and Buddhism makes up a lot of Japan’s religion and culture and you’ll see it clearly in the architecture and land there.
From tall torii gates to beautiful red temples, the combination of nature and architecture makes for a beautiful aesthetic.
So if you go to Japan, visiting some of the temples and shrines should be on your bucket list, because they make for some great photos.
In Kamakura lies one of the most visually appealing shrines in all of Japan: Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.
Because of it’s layout and tall stairs, it has a two story appearance covered in the leaves of the trees around it, almost like a castle.
I quite liked the walk towards the shrine because it was long and drawn out, which feels like you’re entering another world.
As you get closer, you’ll realize the shrine is actually two separate structures: one in the front and another above a tall set of stairs.
This makes the shrine look bigger than it is, but no less impressive, since the scale is still huge.
This adds to the experience, since I was surprised at first, then a bit disappointed, then surprised again.
A few neat things you’ll notice in this shrine:
Near the entrance is a large lotus pond which surrounds a restaurant and other buildings.
This can be a nice subject for photos.
On the structures themselves, you may see the engravings of beautiful cranes, symbolizing good fortune.
To the left of the shrine, you’ll also see a stack of large sake jugs.
I believe these are called “kazaridaru”, or decoration barrels, to show gratitude and reverence to the gods.
They make for great pictures if you could get a shot without people in them.
Hanging near the shrine are also Ema - small wooden plaques where people write their prayers and wishes.
Furthermore, there’s a neat little walkway in the back of the shrine which leads to a smaller secluded shrine.
This walkway is filled with torii gates, which can make for great pictures if there’s enough light.
And if you’re lucky you may see a few Miko, or “shrine maiden” walking around.
I got a few shots with them in it, which I was happy with.
This shot in particular, I thought the contrast between the shrine, the tourists, and the Miko, was perfect.
It captured one of the Kamakura themes I was feeling at the time:
A blend of old tradition and beauty with modern tourism and visitors.
Overall, I found the architecture of the Hachimangu Shrine to be the best part.
The reds blended in with the greens on the overcast day ended up looking much better than I expected.
And I took this shot here, which may be one of the best ones of the day.
I’ll consider putting ones of these up as a print.
I had a good time, so I’d give this spot a big…7.6.
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Spot Score: 7.6.
Hokokuji Bamboo Forest
In addition to shrines and temples, Japan is known for it’s tall bamboo forests.
These bamboo can grow very high, some reaching more than 100 feet tall.
Walking inside them and taking pictures can make for a unique experience.
The problem is, the most popular bamboo forest is in Kyoto and is often packed with tourists.
So if you want a similar experience without the hassle, I’d recommend going here.
This is the Hokokuji Bamboo Forest.
It’s a smaller, lesser known, and less crowded bamboo forest in Kamakura.
It’s hidden behind a temple, which makes for a nice walk, since it’s filled with various statues and plants.
There’s an entrance fee for the bamboo forest, where I’d recommend getting the matcha set.
That way you can sit down, drink a warm cup of tea, stare into the forest, and contemplate your life.
So although it’s not as large as the Kyoto forest, you’ll still get a similar experience.
Walking down the pathway, surrounded by the bamboo, and sipping on a cup of warm matcha made this a moment worth having.
There’s something peaceful about it, and the tea was really good - not sweet, but not bitter either.
So I got some neat photos, but overall, I was just happy to be there.
And being able to take my time without waking up early and fighting crowds like I’d have to in Kyoto, was a big plus.
This makes this one of the better spots in my opinion.
…7.3.
Hokokuji Bamboo Forest Spot Score: 7.3.
Local Gems
When traveling to foreign countries, you don’t want to just go to the popular attractions and Instagram spots.
Those are cool and fun but are missing a part of the country culturally.
And a big point of travel is to see and experience new things, right?
So finding a few local gems should be in your best interest.
This goes for both photo spots and food.
This day, I got lucky.
After visiting the bamboo forest, I walked around exploring a few neighborhoods.
The neighborhoods themselves made for some nice photos, since there were a lot of old cars mixed in with lush green plants.
I had no interest in going back to the crowded Komachi Street for food, and had luckily stumbled into a local soba shop.
Save for the owners, it was completely empty.
This made me a bit nervous, since I knew very little Japanese - but it was worth it.
The space was small and the walls were filled with pictures of the menu and other traditional decor.
Finding little holes in the wall like this adds to the travel experience and you get to see a side of the city you normally wouldn’t.
I’m not gonna lie - the soba was okay, but it did hit the spot.
Should we do a food score?
…I’ll give it a 6.9?
7.1 if you count everything about the shop itself.
Local Soba Shop Food Score: 7.0.
As for dessert, I did have a popular place in mind.
There’s a spot in Kamakura known for it’s shiratama rice balls - and I had to go there even if it wasn’t a “hidden hole in the wall”.
On the corner of a nice upper middle class neighborhood, you’ll find Sabo Kirara.
This place is often crowded and people were lined up outside, even in the sprinkling rain.
If you stand in line, a lady will come and give you a menu, tell you how long the wait is, and take your order later.
There isn’t really an English menu, so you’ll have to point at the one you want or show them a picture.
I waited about an hour for this but it was 100% worth it.
I don’t eat too many sweets anymore, but if you’re a sweets person you’ve got to come here.
The soft shiratama, with fresh fruits, Japanese ice cream (which you know hits different), and a matcha sauce to pour over was perfection.
Score?…9.1.
Sabo Kirara Dessert Score: 9.1.
That might be the first 9…and it goes to a dessert…
Cape Inamuragasaki
When it comes to Japan photography, Mt. Fuji is one of the most popular photo subjects.
But did you know you don’t actually have to go there to see it?
It’s a big mountain, and sometimes you can even catch a glimpse from Tokyo.
And if you’re looking for a seaside view to differentiate your shots from everyone else’s, you can also get one in Kamakura.
That’s what I was saving for sunset.
Down by the coastline is a spot called Cape Inamuragasaki.
It’s a scenic viewpoint where you can see Kamakura, the island Enoshima, and on good days, Mt. Fuji.
After dessert, I rushed over, trying to get here before dark.
Along the way, I took many snaps of the streets around me.
I got a few shots of the green trains I talked about earlier, but nothing crazy.
The lighting and sun was too dark and moody for the look I wanted, and this stayed true for sunset.
Unfortunately by the time I got to the coast, it was too cloudy to see Mt. Fuji.
You could still see Enoshima, the small island in the distance, which made for a nice subject.
I walked around and got some decent shots, although I knew it’d be better on a different day.
A few interesting things I noticed about this spot:
The view of Kamakura is a nice contrast to Tokyo.
When you think of Japan and Tokyo, you often think of tall buildings, futuristic lights, and lots of crowds.
But Kamakura just looked like a peaceful seaside town, so it’s a neat different side of Japan.
The sand here is also black, almost like charcoal.
So I tried to pair the water, the sunset, and the sand into one shot, which led to an okay result.
It was just too dark and the pier was in the way.
This is what I mean when I say timing of day can be more important than skill.
Sometimes, no matter what you do, the conditions of the day will limit how good the photos are.
Overall, I’d give this spot…a 6.9.
Probably higher on a better day.
Cape Inamuragasaki Spot Score: 6.9.
Overall, I had a good time exploring Kamakura and seeing the different sides of Japan.
We walked through Komachi Street, visited the Hachimangu shrine, drank some matcha at the bamboo forest, ate soba and shiratama, and watched the sun set at Cape Inamuragasaki.
My favorite photos of the day have to be these ones at the Hachimangu shrine.
Let me know which ones you liked best in the YouTube comments.
Now, I do wish the weather was a bit better so I could’ve gotten the “green train shot” I wanted.
This meant that ultimately, I had to come back and try again.
On day two I explored this other side of Kamakura, hunted for the green train shot, and even visited Enoshima, a small island off the coast.
But, that’s a story for another time.
If you’re interested, prints and shirts of Mt. Fuji are available.
Kamakura ones will be available once day two is done.
Thank you for reading, I’ll see you in part two.